Drugstore Skincare OGs that Have Stood the Test of Time
For every action, there’s an equal and opposite reaction. The same goes for skincare. As the category exploded over the last several years with extravagant claims and storytelling, a backlash also ensued, calling for a return to the minimalist skincare of our youth. In our issue on back-to-basics skincare, we mentioned some products that we had in our arsenals back in the day (like Oil of Olay and Clean & Clear). As a follow-up, we wanted to share a round-up of drugstore OGs whose performance and appeal have stood the test of beauty time with over sixty years in the business.
Our criteria for these picks were simple — iconic products that gave way to iconic brands, basic yet effective formulas (which were created for all skin types — you can read more about that in our latest issue), and readily available. Not surprisingly, most of these formulas contain common ingredients like glycerin, mineral oil, and petrolatum (a much-maligned but unsung hero in our opinion). The beauty of many of these products is that their original formulas have not evolved much in the last few decades. By that same token, a few do contain some controversial ingredients, including the ones mentioned above.
The Moisturizers
This royal blue tin brings back memories of slathering on a satisfyingly thick layer of protection during cold winter months. There are two formulas — the original German version which is only available in Europe, and the US version. First launched by German conglomerate Beiersdorf in 1911, both versions of this water-in-oil moisturizer boast a combination of skin-friendly and non-irritating ingredients like glycerin to hydrate, panthenol to soothe/heal, and paraffin and lanolin that provide its emollient and occlusive properties. The original German formula was launched (and remains) preservative-free (although heavily scented, which is reflected by its ingredient list that includes common fragrance ingredients like limonene, geraniol, and linalool).
In comparison to the original formula, the US version has a slight variation in ingredients, fragrance and nomenclatures. Despite these differences in formula, both versions have the same thick, near-waxy texture that provides immediate relief to dry, chapped skin. The US version is considered a dupe (although it was invented decades earlier) for luxury brand La Mer’s equally iconic Crème de la Mer. For more information on whether or not it’s a legit dupe, check out BeautifulwithBrain’s comprehensive analysis.
Olay Active Hydrating Moisturizing Lotion Beauty Fluid Original
Although this drugstore mainstay (a part of Procter & Gamble since 1985, and known as Oil of Olay prior to 2000) offers an ever-expanding range of skincare, we’re still partial to the original lotion whose pink hue (and signature scent) was decades ahead of the current millennial pink craze (which we’re over, btw). Invented in the early 1950s by a chemist in South Africa to address his wife’s frustration with waxy potions, its combination of glycerin, mineral oil, petrolatum, dimethicone, and emollients/emulsifiers creates a non-greasy, milky lotion that absorbs easily and works well under other skincare or makeup. Although no longer in the formula, the brand name originally derived from lanolin, a key ingredient in the original. We love its lightweight texture and feel, which makes it a great choice for both day or night usage. We also love that as a severely underrated classic, it received a shout-out from Deepica Mutyala — it’s about time.
The Cleansers
We suspect you may be surprised to see this product here, but hear us out. Launched by Galderma in 1947, this elegantly formulated cleanser has been a dermatologist fave and drugstore staple. The blend of niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol (vitamin B5), and glycerin helps to reinforce the skin's moisture barrier which also makes it a standout amongst other cleansers of its time. Fun fact? The brand name is derived from ‘phil’ (which means love-of) and ‘cet’ from cetyl alcohol, which is used as an emollient in the product. Combined, the word reflects “the love of softening and soothing skin.”
This product inexplicably experienced a fall from grace during the last several years, during which Cerave rose to dominance (and yes, Cerave is a relatively new entrant compared to the OG drugstore brands).
Neutrogena (owned by Johnson & Johnson) makes it really hard to pick just one classic. But the Liquid Neutrogena facial cleanser won based on longevity in the market (it was launched in the 1950s) and some memorable features, including an amber-colored liquid in a short, square pump. Like all of the formulas mentioned so far, glycerin is a major player here. Other key ingredients include oleic acid and coconut acid, both emollient fatty acids. Like the Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, this economical formula does the job very well without extra frills.
Lip Saviors
ChapStick Classic Skin Protectant Original
ChapStick is to lip balm as Kleenex is to tissues — the brand is interchangeable with the product, and for good reason. Invented in the 1890s by a pharmacist-tinkerer in Virginia, ChapStick originally looked like a wickless candle wrapped in foil before assuming the push-up stick format in the 1930s. Ownership of the brand changed quite a bit until it was acquired by GlaxoSmithKline in 2019.
Today, ChapStick’s popularity is still going strong (a close competitor, Carmex, came about a couple of decades later). Despite how you might feel about it personally, this is the lip product that launched a thousand ships, and now comes in too many varieties to count (pineapple coconut and cake batter to name a few). Surprise, surprise — this formula features all the tried-and-true ingredients of petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, and paraffin. It even offers a touch of sun protection with titanium dioxide (although the product technically doesn't feature any SPF claims). ChapStick Classic Original also remains unencumbered by gendered marketing in both its packaging and formula. For many, if there’s one product they buy from the drugstore, it’s often this.
The Original Hybrid
In the beginning, there was Pond’s. Every mother or grandmother we know attributes some portion of their smooth, glowing skin to this product. Pond’s has been around since 1846, and by the mid-20th century, its core duo of Cold Cream (the first moisturizer not to require refrigeration) and Vanishing Cream had become iconic. We forget that during the days when cleansing oils/balms, makeup removing wipes, and micellar water didn’t exist, the “tissue-off” method of a cold cream cleanse prevailed. At the same time, this hero product left skin hydrated and moisturized.
Up until recently, this iconic product was marketed as both a cleanser and moisturizer (who else remembers the classic white-top jar?). Today, it has been re-marketed as a moisturizing Cold Cream Cleanser (green-cap jar), alongside a moisturizer, the Dry Skin Cream Facial Moisturizer (blue-top jar). The cleanser features mineral oil, beeswax, and emulsifying agents that are effective at removing make-up and grime, while the moisturizer also features the trinity of mineral oil, petrolatum, and glycerin.
The Do-it-All’s
Vaseline Jelly Original and Aquaphor Advanced Therapy Healing Ointment
We wanted to give a shout-out to the quintessentially classic, Vaseline (owned by Unilever) and Aquaphor Healing Ointment (owned by Beiersdorf). Although we tend to associate their usage with lip care, these are extremely versatile products that can be used for both extremely dry skin as well as healing wounds. This is largely due to the key ingredient — you guessed it — petrolatum. As we’ve mentioned in our in-depth feature on petrolatum, this skincare staple still offers the highest occlusivity out there. Aquaphor has a little bit of a leg up with the addition of mineral oil, lanolin, glycerin, and panthenol in its formula.
As much evolution as we’ve seen in skincare since these products first came to market, they remain unbeatable when it comes to formula, efficacy, and price point. More importantly, they demonstrate how common ingredients still deserve a place in our skincare routines. Since even the drugstore aisles have become confusing, hopefully this list will help reacquaint you with the classics that everyone can benefit from having in their medicine cabinet or atop a vanity. Lastly, for anyone still experiencing inflammation from over-exfoliation or masks, these products are here to the rescue. We’d love to hear what your favorites are — send us a note with one of your classics for a future round-up of reader faves!