Petrolatum: An Unsung Hero (The Truth, Myths, and Benefits)
If you've heard of slugging (thank you, TikTok and Reddit), or perhaps you’re already familiar with this ultra-hydrating ritual, you likely know petrolatum can be a true savior for very dry, irritated, or compromised skin. Yet, despite its effectiveness and long history, petrolatum—aka petroleum jelly—has recently become the target of skepticism within the beauty industry.
So, what’s the real story behind petrolatum? Let's thoughtfully unpack its myths, truths, and surprisingly complicated past.
First things first: What exactly is petrolatum?
Petrolatum is a thick, odorless substance composed of saturated hydrocarbons derived from petroleum, a crude oil extracted from beneath Earth's surface. As a natural byproduct of petroleum refinement (used to produce gasoline, plastics, detergents, and more), petrolatum and mineral oil are created whether cosmetics use them or not. Essentially, if the beauty industry doesn’t repurpose them, they're discarded.
This leads to understandable questions about sustainability—but the direct environmental impact of cosmetics-grade petrolatum is relatively minor compared to broader petroleum industry practices.
A Complicated History: Who Really Discovered Petrolatum?
Petrolatum's most famous incarnation is Vaseline, created by Sir Augustus Chesebrough in the late 1800s. Chesebrough visited oil rigs in Pennsylvania, noticed workers using petroleum residue as a remedy for wounds, and later patented a filtration process to produce purified petrolatum, branding it as Vaseline.
However, long before Chesebrough's discovery, Native American tribes in Pennsylvania had already harnessed the skincare benefits of petroleum jelly. They skillfully extracted petroleum jelly from natural surface seeps, using it effectively to treat wounds and burns at a time when Europeans still relied on animal fats.
This often-overlooked history provides an important perspective on petrolatum's longstanding legacy.
Is Petrolatum Safe for Skin?
Petrolatum is FDA-approved as an over-the-counter skin protectant (and even as a food additive), prized by dermatologists for its occlusive properties. It forms a protective barrier, effectively preventing moisture loss and promoting skin healing. It's widely used in medicinal ointments, burn treatments, wound care, and iconic products like Aquaphor and Vicks Vaporub.
Concerns about petrolatum's safety typically arise from confusion between crude, unrefined petroleum and the cosmetic-grade petrolatum used in skincare. Cosmetic petrolatum undergoes rigorous purification processes to remove contaminants, ensuring it's non-carcinogenic and safe for topical use. It’s strictly regulated by the FDA, Health Canada, and the European Union, and notably not included on California’s stringent Proposition 65 list.
When purchasing skincare containing petrolatum, look for "Petrolatum USP" on the label—this ensures the highest purity standards.
Mythbusting: Does Petrolatum Clog Your Pores?
One common myth is that petrolatum creates an unbreathable barrier on the skin or clogs pores. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum and mineral oil, however, are proven to be non-comedogenic. Petrolatum effectively prevents about 99% of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), allowing skin to retain vital moisture, yet still maintains approximately 1% breathability, which is crucial for healthy skin function.
Petrolatum Isn't the Beauty Industry’s Dirty Secret
Despite recent skepticism from clean beauty advocates, petrolatum remains safe, effective, and remarkably non-irritating. While not renewable or environmentally ideal, the cosmetic industry’s use of petrolatum has minimal impact compared to larger petroleum-dependent industries.
To borrow the words of dermatologist Dr. Ranella Hirsch: "There is so much derision for an ingredient whose entire claim to fame is to irritate no one."
Petrolatum, ultimately, deserves recognition as the safe, effective, and misunderstood skincare hero it truly is.
Additional references:
Cajete, Gregory. Native Science. Sante Fe, Clear Light Books, 2000.
Weatherford, Jack. Indian Givers. New York, Penguin, 2010.