How Different Are Products Based on Your Skin Type?

Besides product classifications based on gender, the majority of the skincare industry is predicated on skin typing. Where do you fall on the Fitzpatrick scale? Are you dry, oily, combo, or sensitive? These systems often dictate our entire approach to skin care and were created to help us make better, smarter decisions when it comes to the care and treatment of our skin. But when we’re talking about our skincare products specifically, are the ones based on skin type significantly different?

There are two sides to this question. The first supports targeted products arguing that a universal approach to skincare doesn’t make sense since everyone’s skin is so different. In their view, a product designed for ‘all skin types’ doesn’t always address specific skin concerns…especially if you’re acne- or rosacea-prone. The second camp – camp Skindie – believes that products formulated for specific skin types aren’t that much different from mainstream formulas in terms of efficacy. They vary from a sensory point of view (think, product texture and how it feels on the skin), and if you’re a long time skincare formulator, you would probably agree. 

Let’s dive a bit more into this. 

First things first, how do we often assess skin type?

While Helena Rubinstein created the primary classification of skin types (dry, oily, combination and sensitive) in the early 20th century, facial skin in the traditional field of cosmetics is usually classified as dry, normal, and oily. There is also a more recent, complex system known as the Baumann Skin Typing System that covers four spectrums – dry to oily, pigmented to non-pigmented, sensitive to resistant, and wrinkled to tight. But since there is no standard objective method for classifying facial skin, the idea of skin type is largely based on sebum secretion, which influences pore size, skin tightness after cleansing, and daily greasiness.

So when we’re determining our skin type, it’s usually based on our own subjective perception of how dry or oily it is, with oily being the least desirable. Sometimes we perceive our skin to be one way but oftentimes it’s the opposite, or it changes seasonally and even evolves over time due to age, hormones, the environment, and other factors like stress. And then there are general skin types based on regional climatic conditions (e.g. in hot/humid Asian regions skin conditions are more oily and in the Nordic countries skin skews drier). 

Skincare based on skin types

Let’s start with a key question: when it is challenging to objectively determine our skin type (especially since there is no standard methodology to assess it), how do we formulate products marketed for different skin types effectively? Especially since there is so much nuance and detailing involved? 

In the world of cosmetic science, modern day products are not necessarily designed to discriminate between skin types; they’re thoroughly tested for irritant potential and can often work for everyone, unless you have allergies to certain ingredients. And unlike pharmaceutical drugs where the molecule can truly change the structure and function of skin, the arsenal that a cosmetic chemist has to alter your skin type is limited. When formulating skin type based products, a chemist usually modifies the feel and perception on skin by changing the ratios of base ingredients such as humectants, thickeners, oils, butters, alcohol, silicones, etc. More on this a bit later.

You’re also probably wondering about brands that market themselves as truly personalized (e.g., Proven, Skin Inc., Function of Beauty) – where skincare is customized based on methods like surveying, DNA testing, microbiome swabs and even epigenetics, and while it all seems high-tech, what actually goes into these formulas/products is not much different than what you would find at your local beauty store. The same base ingredients or standard base formulas are used as any other products, with some functional, active biological ingredients added in there, too. These functional ingredients may be similar to what you would find in any other skincare product that is not customized. So, the bottom line – the benefit of buying customized products is marginal at best, but hey, if you love the service, the texture and your name on the bottle with a subscription tab on your credit card, then go ahead and splurge. 

While we’re on the subject of skin types, we can’t ignore the elephant in the room: sensitive skin. On TikTok, the hashtag #sensitive skin has 210.1 million views. While it has been estimated that 50% of the population has sensitive skin, more and more consumers believe they are in need of gentle, soothing, skin-barrier-cocooning formulas. And brands have stepped up to the plate to provide these products. A good formulator who creates a product for sensitive skin will include ingredients that support the skin barrier, milder surfactants, less harsh preservatives, and leave out colorants, fragrance or aggressive ingredients such as alpha-hydroxy acids or retinoids.

An important thing to note – legally, cosmetic products do not have to get extensively tested to prove they are safe for sensitive skin. Few products are actually tested on a panel of sensitive skin to confirm safety; to support the claim a patch test is usually conducted on the backs of those with sensitive skin. 

It comes down to aesthetics first and then some basic functionality

Early on we mentioned that products formulated for different skin types aren’t that much different from mainstream formulas when we’re talking about performance. What helps us differentiate between skin type based products are things like texture, product skin feel, or even fragrance. Remember, when formulating a product for various skin types, a chemist usually modifies the feel and perception on skin by altering ratios of base ingredients such as humectants, thickeners, oils, butters, alcohol, silicones, etc. 

Let’s take a look at a few examples. 

A product designed for oily and or acne-prone skin will have a lighter texture (e.g. a gel) with less occlusive emollients. Occasionally, ingredients like salicylic acid, witch hazel, oil absorbent powders or 5-alpha reductase inhibitors are added to reduce sebum production. 

Dry skin getting you down? You’re probably using a thicker, emollient-rich cream that is loaded with butters, oils, and waxes (and even some specialized ceramides/lipids). There is also likely to be more ingredients like allantoin, vitamin E and more barrier repair ingredients to reduce TEWL (trans-epidermal-water loss). Besides the obvious texture differences, the addition of these other functional ingredients may benefit the user, but marginally, since we’re not talking about drugs. 

So will your skin “fall off” if you use the wrong skin type product? Highly unlikely. Will your skin show dramatic differences if you use the correct skin type product for a few weeks? Maybe, but nothing is for certain. If you’re a self-proclaimed sensitive skin person then you are generally okay to go with a reputable brand (e.g., Cetaphil, Eucerin, Aveeno) for your basic skin care needs. If your physician or dermatologist diagnosed you with sensitive skin (i.e, you have rosacea/eczema/allergic reactions) then you would benefit from a more rigid search process. At the end of the day, remember to always do what works best for you and your skin.