The Skinny on Back-to-Basics Skincare
What’s your number? And by that we mean...how many products are in your current skincare routine?! Whether you’re a beauty junkie or a minimalist, everyone seems confused about how to approach their skincare — even Lilly Singh. There was a time when drugstore brands like Noxzema and Neutrogena reigned supreme, Clinique was almost a luxury, and even though Baz Luhrmann’s wear sunscreen song was a hit, there was no actual sunscreen shaming in sight. As we approach Fall/Winter and make some tweaks to our routines, we’re craving the simplicity of Dr. Dray’s 90s skincare routine and wondering how it all got so complicated.
Fueled by the influence of Asian skincare (think multi-step Korean routines), lockdown beauty, and now the backlash of ‘skinimalism’, it’s harder than ever to find a happy medium that’s kind to our skin and our wallets. Not only that, but the beauty lexicon now includes phrases like “skin barrier” — something no one talked about ten years ago, let alone knew it could be damaged! We’re addicted to social media reviews and looking for IG-worthy packaging. We’re stuck in a cycle of being overwhelmed by skincare newness, and at times, being offered solutions to ‘problems’ we don’t know enough about (we’re looking at you, microbiome and probiotic skincare).
But everything old becomes new again, including a less is more approach to skincare (we think our trusty bottle of Oil of Olay could have told us that). What’s more, we’re seeing the industry and influencers reject complexity and go back-to-the-basics. Dr. Ranella Hirsch breaks it down best — the needs, nice-to-haves, and nevers. Dr. Shereene Idriss also reminds us that seasonal transitions like summer to fall can impact routines. And we love the guidance from skincare guru Rio Viera-Newton — it’s all about doing what you can based on the time you’ve given yourself, what your skin needs, and what feels self-nurturing and meditative (these are also very new ways of describing skincare…but nonetheless legit).
So while one era was defined by Clinique’s cleanse/tone/moisturize system and then another by overexfoliation and irritating ingredients, maybe it’s time to stop overthinking it. Two products you’ll always need (duh) — bath/shower soap or cleanser (especially to remove makeup and water-resistant sunscreen) and moisturizer. And though we did seem to survive without it in the past, it’s wise to include sunscreen and a proven multi-tasker (a retinoid for instance, but take it easy). If you do nothing else, you’ll be in great shape!
For us, the rest is purely optional. Gentle exfoliants, eye creams, and spot treatments can be included based on your specific needs (e.g. if you have blemish-prone skin) or when you feel like experimenting. But harsh scrubs, exfoliants (like The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Exfoliating Peeling Solution), and cleansing tools? Soo not necessary. Similar to products, treatments are also optional and best performed in consultation with a board-certified dermatologist, esthetician, or other expert.
The best part of sticking to the basics? There’s so much room here to spend as you wish and no pressure to try everything under the sun. Revisit those old faves! We just picked up a tube of Clean & Clear Cream Cleanser and Clinique’s Dramatically Different Moisturizer is still a best-seller. We know product reviews are tempting and FOMO is real — but it’s not a race to try or own them all. If you do like to experiment, try changing one thing at a time and always give yourself a few weeks between changes or products with strong active ingredients (especially the exfoliating variety). Your skin and wallet will thank you.