The Rec Edition-Fall 2021
Benefits: Retinoid uglies be gone with Glossier’s latest buzzworthy skincare launch. If you’re a retinoid newbie or pro, have sensitive skin, or are dubious when it comes to vitamin A and its family of derivatives, don’t think twice before adding this product to your skincare arsenal. With a lightweight, creamy texture as smooth as butter, it offers results you can see without hardly any of the usual downsides (e.g., dryness, redness, irritation, etc.).
The Science: It’s formulated with 0.5% retinyl sunflowerate, a new vitamin A derivative/hybrid that is marketed as more stable and less irritating than retinol. Sounds like marketing fluff, we know, but it’s INCI name is legit. It’s derived from pure retinol and is blended with sunflower seed fatty acids to give you the benefits of a retinoid with little side effects. Multi-taskers and humectants like glycerin and propanediol, moisturizing shea butter, and various botanical extracts help make the formula highly tolerable.
As a note: you might remember from our issue on retinol that the efficacy of retinoid derivatives depends on its conversion to retinol and ultimately retinoic acid. Based on the scientific literature available for retinyl sunflowerate, we were not able to verify where it stands in terms of the conversion process.
That said, the texture of this product is an achievement in itself; we love how pillowy-soft and velvety it is without being oily or heavy. Instead of trusty silicones, a clever combination of cetyl ethylhexanoate (a skin conditioning emollient-ester) and c13-15 alkane (an emollient derived from sugarcane) gives this product a lovely gliding sensation.
The Bottom Line: For a retinoid product, this one is remarkably gentle and moisturizing, so you can even forgo applying a moisturizer on top depending on your skin type. Of all the Glossier skincare products, this is by far our favorite from the cult-favorite brand.
Benefits: There’s a new kid on the vitamin C block and it’s here to stay. Skincare startup Matter of Fact’s innovative vitamin C technology (patent pending) challenges the big brands including the goliath of them all — Skinceuticals’ CE Ferulic. At 20% ascorbic acid, this transparent formula is neither runny nor oily and absorbs super fast, making it ideal to layer your next products. There isn’t an overbearing scent or harsh/irritating side effects to be found here. Most importantly — it works. True to its name, we noticed an overall brightening effect and improvement in our patches of discoloration.
The Science: We rarely say it but this is what you call innovation. This waterless product is a standout when it comes to stability and elegance of formulation, and is backed by 12 weeks of clinical studies. The genius here is a breakthrough combination of only six ingredients: propanediol (a naturally-derived alternative to the common propylene glycol), diglycerin (which provides longer lasting hydration and a better feel than regular glycerin), and classic urea (a dermatologist favorite). Plus, it includes two powerful antioxidants — ferulic acid and pinus pinaster bark extract (a well-researched antioxidant supporting ascorbic acid’s potency) — all of which results in a highly stable formula.
Bottom Line: Yaas to true innovation, and price-wise, it hits the sweet spot between popular vitamin C serums from Skinceuticals, Drunk Elephant, and the like.
Benefits: We’re wowed by this moisturizer when it comes to just about everything. It's dense and whipped enough to feel luxurious, yet fast-absorbing and non-greasy. And it's a great choice for all skin types and day/night routines, especially under makeup and sunscreen. There is a light fragrance that dissipates quickly and a fragrance-free version is available if you prefer.
The Science: This is a really strong formula — simple and efficient. The texture/feel can be attributed to a combination of quick-breaking thickeners, traditional emulsifiers, absorbing powders, and light emollients (thank isododecane and stearyl heptanoate for this heavenly texture and non-greasy feel). It also features a strong mix of hydrating/moisturizing heroes like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, trehalose and squalane. Plus, it has skin-brightening niacinamide and one of the best-proven peptide complexes that stimulates collagen production (Matrixyl 3000).
Bottom Line: On formula, aesthetics, and pricing — e.l.f. hit a home run with this one.
Benefits: With all the recent sunscreen launches galore, this product embodies the perfect balance between simplicity and science. It gets the job done (with a combination of both chemical/organic and mineral/inorganic UV filters) while also offering a great sensorial experience in the bargain. It may look like a regular ole sunscreen with a typical ‘sunscreen smell’ but it’s perfectly lightweight, non-greasy, non-sticky and imparts a non-weighty feel (which is hard to come by) post application. It also won’t leave a white cast behind, no matter your skin tone.
The Science: We love when sunscreens feature both types of UV filters — you get the best of both worlds — good UVA/UVB protection and a more elegant texture. Aside from zinc oxide (7.5%), octinoxate (7.5%) and octisalate (2.50%), emollient-esters like isopropyl palmitate and ethylhexyl stearate give a silky touch and a nice after-feel to the product; it’s what makes this sunscreen stand apart from the crowd. Silicones also lend to the unique texture, while skin-loving ingredients such as panthenol and allantoin calm and soothe the skin.
Bottom Line: Sunscreen is a highly personal choice, but this one ticks all the boxes from an objective point of view. Give it a try and it’s likely one you will reach out to purchase again and again.