Unmasking Face Masks

Boo! Spooked by the sight of a fellow skindie unexpectedly donning a sheet mask? Whether it’s on IG or a viral video, masks have a visual appeal that makes them irresistible (like the OG GlamGlow or Boscia peel-off Luminizing Black Mask) and are also a self-care go-to. They’re a noun, they’re a verb (including multi-masking!) — they’re everywhere. This Halloween, whether we’re tagging our masks for #selfcaresunday or for a costume, let’s take a look at what they do and if we really need them. 

In terms of functionality, face masks are often designed and marketed as a treatment for a skin condition, such as dehydration or dryness, redness, clogged pores, stressed skin or detoxification. Some masks achieve this by providing an occlusive barrier and allowing ingredients to penetrate more deeply into the skin in a relatively short amount of time — sometimes in a more concentrated/intense version than other products. As a result, masks often show instant benefits which makes them the quick fix people seek before special occasions (or Zoom calls), as well as a rejuvenating act of self-care. 

From a formulation perspective, masks can be pretty basic. You’ll often find formulas with a deceptively simple combination of common ingredients that can be found in other skincare products (and is a part of what makes them cost effective development-wise). In terms of format, they might be a standalone emulsion, gel, or suspension that can be applied directly to the face or via a substrate (we’ll get into that more a little later). Traditionally, rinse, peel, and roll-off masks (both the store-bought and DIY kind) have been the most common formats, while sheet masks aren’t waning in popularity. Let’s break down each type a little bit more.  

Rinse, peel, and roll-off masks

You’re probably no stranger to rinse-off masks — these are usually applied to the face in a thick layer and allowed to dry down before the remaining product is removed with water. Clay masks (often featuring kaolin, bentonite, etc., and can be thick emulsions) are a great example of a traditional rinse-off. These have always had a following for their ability to draw out impurities or absorb excess sebum, and for what appears to be a pore-shrinking effect — anyone remember drugstore classic Queen Helene Mint Julep mask? 

Unlike rinse-offs, peel and roll-off masks have a different texture and formula —  plus, they don’t require removal with water. They are usually a jelly-like product that may include an ingredient such as polyvinyl alcohol, a viscosity-controlling ingredient which allows the product to dry down into a peelable film (like the Bosica one we mentioned earlier, or Waso’s Purifying Peel Off Mask). 

While peel-off masks are meant to be slowly lifted off the face (often in a single layer), roll-off masks are removed a little differently. If you’ve tried products like the Secret Key Lemon Sparkling Peeling Gel, you’ll know what we’re talking about. The formula is similar to peel-off masks but instead, a gentle rubbing action allows the product to aggregate into tiny rolls which fall away from the face. Similar to peel-offs, you might see dirt, oil, and grime captured on those little rolls. 

The social media appeal of peel and roll-offs appears to be the gross, gratifying stuff of de-clogged pores highlighted on dark surfaces (and sometimes glittery? We’ll never understand that glitter mask trend of a few years ago). We find these masks to be a little gimmicky — they’re not necessarily depositing beneficial ingredients onto the skin nor are they performing a deep cleanse. At best, they provide some low-grade mechanical exfoliation that isn’t very different from a scrub. Any benefits might be countered by the potentially irritating effects of ripping hardened slime off your face. This isn’t exactly our idea of a rejuvenating ritual, and luckily, we’re not seeing them much on social media as of late. 

Sheet masks

In recent years, we’ve been introduced to new technologies that allow formulas to be applied to the face via a substrate like cloth, polymeric, or biocellulose-based films (think, serum-infused sheets) or ones that enable longer contact with the skin when applied directly (like overnight/sleeping masks). These masks are pretty gentle and mostly harmless — they carry the same risk of irritation as applying any regular product on your face since the intent is to leave it on after the sheet mask is thrown out. The iconic SK-II sheet masks and countless others are infused with a product similar to what you might find in a jar. They could be more concentrated but are generally developed with the intent of the user perceiving instant results (perceived being a key word here). Sheet masks were huge for a while, but there are valid concerns about their sustainability and environmental impact — we’ll probably see much less of them in the future. 

Overnight and sleeping Masks 

Overnight/sleeping masks (these are mostly leave-on) are a growing category and we see a lot of them from Asian skincare brands (e.g., the CosRX Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask or the Laneige Sleeping Lip Mask). The formulas for these types of masks are similar to common night creams, gels or serums and may feature higher concentrations of key ingredients to give them more emollient/moisturizing properties or to thicken the texture compared to similar non-mask products. And yes, the same goes for hair masks — they are deep conditioning treatments masquerading (pun intended) as masks. Like with sheet masks, the product is not different from what you’ll find in a jar otherwise. 

The Marketing story

There’s a great synergy here between marketing strategy and user experience. Masks stay on the skin for a longer period of time compared to other products but are fairly low-commitment, allowing us busybees to catch up on our email, Netflix, sleep, etc., or even avoid expensive in-office facials. And since they can be more cost effective from a development perspective, a strong price strategy supports the growth we’ve seen in this product category of late. Simpler formulas lead to a low-cost product, but due to the high amount of product used per application and the resulting volume, masks have the potential to offer high margins. Combine this with the quick-fix mentality, and you can see why masks are a win-win for both consumers and the companies that make them. 

So, what’s next for masks? While we’re not seeing much innovation, there’s still a ton of marketing around unique packaging or ingredients marketed as “superfoods” for the face. We’re also seeing an explosion of hair masks, and we think there might be some kind of body masking in the skindie future. 

To mask, or not to mask?

While there may be some perceived efficacy and a temporary boost, face masks are an extra treatment and more about self-care than performance (we’re not complaining). They sit comfortably on the border of nice-to-have and unnecessary, which isn’t a bad place to be in a skincare routine. We still think cleansing, moisturizing, and using SPF, with a few active ingredients in the mix, is the way to go. If your mask(s) of choice contain actives or other ingredients that you find beneficial for your skin, it’s worth using them over time regardless of what format you find them in, as long as you select the right product for your skin type/issues and use it correctly. Happy masking and happy Halloween!