In Light of Skin Cancer Awareness Month, A Review on Sunscreens

Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 PA+++

Why we love it: Who can say no to an invisible veil of sun protection coupled with the soothing and protecting benefits of a moisturizer. This mineral (or inorganic) sunscreen is a lightweight, sheer formula that melts into the skin effortlessly, leaving nothing but a subtle, glowy finish and a protective film that does more than help shield your skin from the sun.

The moisturizing benefits of this product lie in its base, featuring a trifecta of skin-loving ingredients: coconut-derived Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (emollient), Glycerin (humectant), and the brand’s hero ingredient and multitasker, plant-derived Squalane. Squalane has high emollient and occlusive properties, and lends a non-greasy smoothness. The formula also features Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract (Water Lily), a popular ingredient that offers soothing/calming benefits post-sun exposure.

As a sunscreen, the only UV filter featured here is 14% Zinc Oxide, which protects against the entire spectrum of UVA + UVB. Zinc Oxide is a white paint like powder and the key to getting an elegant feel and good transparency is to have an even and small particle size in the formula. This product smartly uses Zinc Oxide that is coated and pre-grinded into a concentrated paste with small and uniform particles, allowing for ease of formulation and minimal white cast on skin.

The coated Zinc Oxide used is a pre-blended dispersion, which includes Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Lecithin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, and Isostearic Acid.

This product also features a PA+++ rating (a Japanese rating system), which indicates a high level of UVA protection, although any well-formulated sunscreen should provide broad-spectrum protection with or without a PA rating.

What we don’t love: Biossance claims to be “clean” or “non-toxic,” so fear-mongering is being used as a marketing tactic. Not to mention the formula of this sunscreen contains pretty standard “chemical” ingredients.

UV filters: Zinc Oxide 14%
Key ingredients: Squalane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract (Water Lily)
Fragrance: Synthetic fragrance-free (based on new “clean beauty” criteria at retailers such as Sephora and Credo), with no discernible scent.
Skin types: Great for all skin types.
Inclusivity: Great for all skin tones.
Makeup compatibility: Provides a smooth, non-greasy, and non-tacky base for makeup application.
Feeling around eyes: Comfortable and without any irritation (may vary from person to person).
Product Sensory & Attributes: A thin, lightweight, smooth lotion. Not very structured; low peak upon pick-up (between index finger and thumb). Upon rub-out, there is an oily break. It has a sheer finish that is slightly sticky and dries down to a slightly glossy (dewy) finish.
Key product claims: Invisible; “non-toxic”; paraben-free; PEG-free; reef safe, vegan; cruelty-free; synthetic fragrance-free; moisturizing daily sun protection; broad spectrum, PA+++
Price & Fill Weight: $30 for 50ml (1.7 oz)
Package: Squeeze tube with screw-on cap
Application: Apply a nickel-sized dollop of sunscreen covering face, neck and ears as the last step in your skincare routine, and 15 mins before sun exposure. Blend in well. When in doubt, apply a 2nd layer of sunscreen.

Black Girl Sunscreen SPF 30

Why we love it: This BlackGirl sunscreen has set a new standard for moisturizing chemical sunscreens, featuring an array of natural-friendly ingredients in the form of plant based oils: Aloe, Carrot Seed Oil, Sunflower Oil, Avocado Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, and Cocoa Seed Butter. These oils are excellent moisturizers, replete with fatty acids. They strengthen and smooth the skin’s surface, as well as create a protective barrier on the skin.

While this product has received a lot of love for its invisible formula, this is a chemical sunscreen, and chemical sunscreens almost never impart a white cast. What makes this product unique — and the reason we love it — is the plant based ingredient profile. It’s truly the best of both worlds in terms of sun protection and having moisturizing properties. Not only that, the formula is water-resistant, can be used on the face and body, and is a real bang for your buck price-wise.

This chemical sunscreen features UV filters like Avobenzone — the gold standard for UVA protection, as it is the only chemical UV filter that provides complete protection against the longer, more harmful UVA1 rays. Avobenzone, while very effective, requires some stabilization. This has been accomplished with the addition of UV filter Octocrylene.

The water-resistant properties of this formula come from a polymer called Acrylates/​C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer and other polymers, which are film formers that create a binding film on skin that is resistant to wash-off.

What we don’t love: Like Biossance, Black Girl claims to be “clean” or “non-toxic,” so there’s a fair amount of fear-mongering being used as a marketing tactic. And while this sunscreen relies on “clean beauty” marketing language, it's chock full of common “chemical” ingredients such as polymers and solvents. Also, the percentages of UV filters in this product appear to be borderline effective and could possibly fail SPF testing, especially when claiming water-resistancy for 80 mins.

UV filters: Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 10%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 2.75%
Key ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (aloe), Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Helianthus Anuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)
Fragrance: Fragrance-free, but has a slight “sunscreen smell” upon application that dissipates quickly.
Skin types: Great for most skin types; may want to avoid if you have sensitive skin or reactive skin.
Inclusivity: The name says it all — great for all skin tones.
Makeup compatibility: Provides a smooth, non-greasy, and non-tacky base for makeup application.
Feeling around eyes: Comfortable and without any irritation (may vary from person to person).
Product Sensory & Attributes: A thin, lightweight, smooth lotion. Not very structured; low peak upon pick-up (between index finger and thumb). Upon rub-out, there is an oily break. It has a sheer finish that is slightly sticky and dries down to a satin-finish.
Key product claims: Invisible; “non-toxic”; reef-safe; vegan; cruelty-free; moisturizing daily sun protection; water-resistant (80 minutes); Oxybenzone and Octinoxate-free; broad spectrum
Price & Fill Weight: $18.99 for 89ml (3 fl oz)
Package: Squeeze tube with flip-top cap
Application: Apply a nickel-sized dollop of sunscreen covering face, neck and ears as the last step in your skincare routine, and 15 minutes before sun exposure. When in doubt, apply a 2nd layer of sunscreen.