An Ode to K-Beauty: A Collab with Lynnette Greber (@thebeautealab)

In a relatively short amount of time, Korean beauty has taken the cosmetics industry by storm, proving not to be just a trend but a truly transformative wave of innovation. It gave rise to products never seen before on American shelves, like sheet masks, essences, cushion foundations, and so much more. Known for its fun packaging, hi-tech formulas, and unique ingredient stories, K-beauty redefined skincare with its sense of whimsy, playfulness, and performance.

While K-beauty products have sprung up at countless U.S. retailers (Sephora and Ulta) and online e-tailers (think Soko Glam and Peach & Lily), nothing compares to the experience of shopping at the closest thing to the source: Koreatown in New York City. When you visit stores like Kosette Beauty Market and Besfren Beauty, you’ll find countless products that wow — with unique applications, avante-garde ingredients, intriguing concepts, and whimsical textures.

Here are some of the best of the best K-beauty products (in our view), as seen recently in Koreatown, New York City.

UNIQUE APPLICATIONS

The Product: A’Pieu Aqua Peeling Cotton Swab Intensive

Benefit: An exfoliating treatment that is fun to use and sure packs a punch. This product features AHAs in the form of Glycolic Acid (8%) and Lactic Acid to remove dead skin and BHA Salicylic Acid to help unclog pores and reduce sebum production. To help soothe sensitive and irritated skin, there is Aloe Vera Extract (10%) and Purslane Extract. The latter is derived from the succulent species Portulaca oleracea, and is loaded with antioxidants Vitamin A and Vitamin C. The overall benefit of the product is to remove the rough and dead skin to reveal smoother, cleaner, brighter skin that lasts 2-3 days before using again.

Unique Application: The 100% pure cotton applicator resembles a common household cotton swab, except it's 5x the size! The cotton bud is paddle-shaped and pre-loaded with the formula, which allows for a more targeted application and serves as a gentle mechanical exfoliator. The long handle makes for a tight, firm grip.

User experience: The formula, which is like an essence, is a wet liquid that is easily controlled by the cotton swab. There is a slight tingling sensation on the skin while applying that subsides upon drying. It leaves a slightly tack-y feel, but it dries quickly and leaves the face feeling ultra-smooth.

How to Use: This should be the first step in your nightly routine after cleansing. Use the cotton swab and swipe across the entire face moving from the center of the face outwards. Allow the essence to soak into the skin. Use 2-3 times a week. As a reminder, don't forget to use sunscreen daily.

AVANT-GARDE INGREDIENTS

The Product: COSRX Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence

Benefit: It’s a fast-absorbing, light-weight essence to help protect the skin from moisture loss, provide long-lasting hydration, improve skin elasticity, and keep the skin smooth and healthy. For those unfamiliar, essences, made popular by K-beauty brands, are similar to serums but they can combine many elements of a skincare routine in one step: They hydrate and re-balance the skin while also using high levels of active ingredients.

Avant-Garde Ingredient: Snail Secretion Filtrate. In other words, snail slime or snail mucin. This slimy secretion makes up 96.3% of the formula, and it’s sourced from unharmed snails living in actual snail farms. Once the mucin is collected, it is purified and stabilized. Snail mucin is rich in glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) — polysaccharides that are a part of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) — which help the skin retain moisture. Similar to Hyaluronic Acid, it hydrates and plumps the skin, as well as alleviates redness.

User experience: The snail mucin gives the formula the texture of how we would imagine a (bougie!) snail to be :) The essence comes out of the pump with a slick, sticky-like texture that has a quick, watery break upon rubbing into the skin. After applying to the entire face, the skin has a slight glossy look that quickly dries, leaving the face appear smooth and dewy.

How to Use: After cleansing and toning, apply a small amount on your entire face. Gently pat using fingertips to aid absorption, and then continue with your moisturizer.

INTRIGUING CONCEPTS

The Product: Kocostar Foot Peeling Pack

Benefit: A relaxing and pampering treatment mask for our often neglected and hard-working feet. It's the perfect alternative to an in-person pedi. After about 4-5 days of using the mask, dead skin cells on your feet will begin to exfoliate naturally, to reveal smoother, baby soft skin.

Intriguing Concept: This is a unique application of chemical exfoliating AHAs Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid. There are also hydrating ingredients in this product, such as Sodium Hyaluronate and Nelumbo Nucifera Callus Culture Extract, which is a hydrating exfoliant derived from Nelumbo nucifera (otherwise known as Indian lotus). The mask itself resembles an oversized sock for your feet that seals in these ingredients for an extended period of time. This emulates a spa-like treatment at home, and leaves you anticipating the benefits that you will see and feel for days to come.

User Experience: The solution comes enclosed with the wraps for your feet, which are essentially bags with sticky tabs to secure it tightly around the ankles. It feels very wet, so during the 90 minute process you should find an activity to do that will keep engaged in one place (if you need suggestions, you can online shop for K-Beauty products, learn how you can support the AAPI communities, or read through The Skindie newsletters!). When the time is up, carefully waddle your way to the bathtub and rinse the solution from your feet with warm water. The rinse-off is easy, as it is a water-based formula, and the effects of peeling are said to be noticed in 4-5 days.

How to Use: Cleanse your feet with warm water and towel dry. Apply and secure the mask to your feet while they are still moist. After 90 minutes, rinse your feet with warm water.

WHIMSICAL TEXTURES

The Product: YADAH Bubble Pore Collagen Mask – White Clay

Benefit: Like a bubble bath for your face, the technology of this classic K-beauty product creates a neat texture and non-irritating sensation to upgrade your masking ritual. While the marketing around this product is largely fluff, the beauty of this mask lies in the user experience. Similar to other bubble masks, the formula features Ethyl Perfluroisobuyl Ether and Ethyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, which are perfluorocarbons carbon-based compounds that contain fluorine atoms and are carriers of oxygen. Along with a surfactant (in this case, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), the perfluocarbons create a bubbling effect when they come into contact with the skin.

User Experience: This product was a sensory overload within 15 minutes! It has a creamy, dense texture upon picking it up with your fingertips. While applying and moving it around the face, the formula becomes airy, almost like a shaving-cream texture. After few minutes, you can see, feel, and hear the snap, crackle, and pop of tiny bubbles forming and frothing on the face. After 15 minutes, most of the bubbles have popped and what is left is a dry mask that basically starts pilling off of the face. Reintroducing water during rinse-off allows for easy clean-up and leaves you with a soft, fresh-feeling face. The exact effects of these bubble masks have yet to be studied, but they are certainly a fun way to help clean and revitalize the skin!

How to Use: Apply to a clean face for 10-15 minutes until tiny bubbles appear and pop. Massage lightly with warm water to wash off the remaining product.

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Can Glycolic Acid be Used on Darker Skin Tones? A Collab with Esther Olu (@themelaninchemist)