From Metro to Mainstream: The Science and Evolution of Men’s Skincare
We’ve all seen how much the skincare category has grown in recent years. But you might not know that this is the case for both women and men’s products. Not only is men’s personal care a growing trend, it demands revisiting an old question — what’s the difference between men and women’s skincare anyway?
There are two camps on this question. The first, which supports targeted products for men and women, argues that a universal approach to skincare doesn’t make sense, in the same way that men and women’s apparel differ. In their view, the differences between men and women’s skin require unique formulations — for example, men typically have a thicker dermis (about 10-20% thicker than women, which also makes superficial wrinkles less visible), oilier skin on average, and denser hair growth.
The other camp views skincare as generally the same, especially from a formulation perspective. They believe that products aimed at men vs. women are not any more unique than two different products would be in terms of texture, ingredients, fragrance, color, packaging, and marketing.
That said, the men’s grooming category is witnessing a major uptick in demand; the days when grooming was considered “metro” are long gone. Men that identify as beauty enthusiasts have increased 37% from 2017 to 2020. Not to mention they’re branching out beyond basic grooming towards eye creams and serums, and are increasingly conversant about the products they use, helping to de-stigmatize personal and self-care, while also dismantling some of the archaic stereotypes around masculinity and the beauty industry as a whole. Newer brands positioned for men like Hims, Jaxon Lane, and Caldera + Lab, are influencing this paradigm shift.
While we’re all for increasing inclusivity in beauty, we’re most compelled by the science and feel that everyone should shop based on their skin type, concerns, and aesthetic preferences. Especially since some skincare products designed for men and women are extremely similar. As an example, the first ten ingredients (and some of the key ingredients that follow) in the Clinique for Men Moisturizing Lotion and Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ are identical.
Formulations don’t differ significantly between men’s and women’s products, but there are instances in which products are formulated to meet unique criteria. We compared the ingredient list of two products from Kiehl’s to show why and how they are different — their classic Ultra Facial Moisturizer and popular Facial Fuel Face Moisturizer for Men (snapshot of ingredient lists below).
Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energizing Face Moisturizer for Men
AQUA / WATER, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, ALCOHOL DENAT., GLYCERIN, PROPANEDIOL, DIMETHICONE, ZEA MAYS GERM OIL / CORN GERM OIL, PANTHENOL, ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE, TRIETHANOLAMINE, PHENOXYETHANOL, GLYCERYL LINOLEATE, POLYPERFLUOROMETHYLISOPROPYL ETHER, POLYACRYLAMIDE, DIMETHICONOL, GLYCERYL OLEATE,CARBOMER,CETYL ALCOHOL,C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN, PARFUM /FRAGRANCE, ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL, CAFFEINE,TOCOPHEROL, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, CASTANEA SATIVA SEED EXTRACT / CHESTNUT SEED EXTRACT, BENZOPHENONE-4, MENTHOL, LIMONENE, PEG-100 STEARATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, LAURETH-7, HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN, POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, DISODIUM EDTA, GLYCERYL LINOLENATE, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS JUICE / ORANGE JUICE, CITRUS LIMON JUICE / LEMON JUICE, LINALOOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SODIUM BENZOATE, CITRAL, POTASSIUM SORBATE, CI 42090 / BLUE 1, CI 14700 / RED 4
Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer
AQUA / WATER, SQUALANE, GLYCERIN, PEG-100 STEARATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL,TRIETHANOLAMINE, PHENOXYETHANOL,SORBITAN OLEATE, CARBOMER, CHLORPHENESIN,CERA ALBA / BEESWAX,CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, STEARIC ACID, PALMITIC ACID, MYRISTYL ALCOHOL, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL / SWEET ALMOND OIL, PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL / APRICOT KERNEL OIL, TOCOPHEROL, PERSEA GRATISSIMA OIL / AVOCADO OIL, MYRISTIC ACID
Both formulas include common ingredients that typically make up a moisturizer: hydrating agents, emollients, and occlusives in the form of Glycerin and plant-based oils. Where they differ are ingredients that create an aesthetic that might be perceived as more “masculine.” For instance, the Facial Fuel Moisturizer for Men includes menthol and citrus juices to create the “energizing” or invigorating sensation promised by the product name. It also includes corresponding fragrances like limonene, linalool and citral, colorants that give it a blue tinge, and to top it all off, deep blue packaging.
The Ultra Facial Moisturizer, on the other hand, has none of these ingredients, contains more oils, and is fragrance-free. These attributes aren’t scientifically unique to men and women — they just align with marketing choices made for the target customer (some of which may be backed by market research).
Regardless of gender, everyone benefits from the basics of a strong skincare routine customized to one’s skin type and needs — cleansing, hydration, moisturization, and sunscreen. And remember: skin is king, not marketing.
Photo Credit: Lions Gate Films