False Sunscreen Label Claims are Not as Rare as You Think. Remember the Purito Controversy?
A few months ago, ingredient database INCIDecoder shared lab results revealed that one of the most beloved Korean sunscreens, Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun SPF 50, had a false label claim with an actual sun protection factor of only 19 (less than half of its purported SPF 50 claim). With sunscreens being as top of mind as ever – emotions ran high and people were irate.
The incidence with Purito is not an isolated phenomenon. And false label claims can happen with all sunscreens, not just Korean sunscreens. Shocking, we know, especially when we’re talking about a product that is classified as an over-the-counter drug here in the US and goes through rigorous testing. Aside from Purito, skincare influencers like Lab Muffin Beauty Science came forward to clarify how false sunscreen label claims can happen.
First off, it’s important to know that the SPF testing process is complex and that several parties are involved. You have the brand, the manufacturing company, the 3rd party testing lab, and a federal health and safety agency (in our case, it’s the FDA). There are also two standard test methods: the FDA method and the ISO method. The latter is considered to be the “gold standard.” Both are similar in design, but they’re technically two different tests.
Before we dive into the how, let’s take a quick look at what’s transpired in the US world of SPF testing. Aside from many global independent consumer organizationsfinding discrepancies with sunscreen label claims, Consumer Reports, a non-profit organization that re-tests sunscreens for efficacy and label claims, has revealed time and again that many have failed to provide the level of protection you see on the label.
Now to the key question: how do false sunscreen label claims happen? The answer is complicated. Here goes:
Agencies like the FDA don't routinely test sunscreens themselves once they receive it from the brand, manufacturer, or 3rd party lab as they simply don’t have the manpower to manage the enormous breadth of programs under their purview.
Sunscreens are tested on us humans, and while administrators put “controls” on the test, there is bound to be some variation in results. Volunteers are recruited by different ages and skin type (think Fitzpatrick scale). How prone to burning are you? Final results may vary depending on how you burn baby burn.
The in vivo SPF test is nuanced where things like varying degrees of light calibration, level of tactile pressure by the test moderator when applying product, and final visual evaluation can influence the outcome.
When testing high level SPF products, there are no established “controls." The “control” product should ideally be of the same formula chemistry, which seldom is the case when testing.
The in vivo SPF test is not very reproducible. Results can vary on the same batch of the product, at the same test centers, or between different test centers. Moreover, the results are based on a complex mathematical calculation that involves standard deviation and any slight discrepancy can impact final reporting.
Batch variations of sunscreens can impact results. After cosmetic manufacturers test an early version of a sunscreen, they may not conduct a second test after it is reformulated or customized for different commercial brands. Brands establish the SPF value on a small lab batch and seldom test the product again once it enters the manufacturing phase. This can lead to a difference in values based on the quality of a lab batch versus a larger scale production batch.
In vivo SPF testing is expensive and brands don’t usually have an infinite budget to repeat tests. If they receive a favorable result with a sunscreen, it may become a base formula subject to multiple iterations, where the new formulas are not re-tested. In vitro testing, on the other hand, is cheaper and faster, and often used as a pre-screener, but it also has its set of challenges that can produce incorrect results.
While these inconsistencies are known to stakeholders involved in testing a sunscreen, false SPF label claims may continue to crop up until there is a more harmonized and controlled testing process. Currently, the FDA has a sunscreen task force that is working towards issuing new methodologies, but in the meantime, if you ever need to be reassured about a product you’re using, check with the brand, or make sure it’s registered with the FDA here.