What You Need to Know About Ayurvedic Beauty
Savvy Skindies will recall that we shared a brief overview of Ayurveda-inspired skincare trends in our previous issue, South Asian Beauty Brands to Watch. Not only is growth in this space projected to reach almost $15B by 2026, established companies like Estee Lauder and Puig are investing heavily in Ayurvedic brands. While ingredients from South Asia and those commonly used in Ayurvedic practice have been in the market for decades, the trend has gone from niche to mainstream due to a strong synergy with the clean beauty movement and the demand for greater diversity and inclusion within the beauty industry. In today’s issue, we’re digging deeper into this ancient system of healing, exploring the brands and products currently in-market, and of course, sharing the science.
Ayurveda 101
The Sanskrit translation of Ayurveda is the science or knowledge of life. Dating back about 5000 years, it is a holistic system of wellness and healing based on the notion that the functioning of the human body is directly linked to the natural world. There are three key concepts essential to Ayurveda. The first is that imbalances within the body or a lack of harmony with the external environment and seasons can lead to inflammation, disease, and suboptimal health. This can be corrected or alleviated by balancing the five main life forces (air, fire, earth, water, and space) that coexist in different proportions within the body. The three main body types formed by these forces are known as doshas — Vata, Kapha, and Pitta.
Second, underlying this premise is the idea that managing these counteractive forces can correct imbalances, alleviate inflammation, and promote healing. Once a body type is identified, health issues or concerns can be addressed by balancing the dominant force with the lesser forces. This can be achieved through certain foods, spices, herbs, and exercises, according to the appropriate seasonality.
The third major aspect of Ayurveda is the concept of agni, which refers to a principle of transformation reflected in digestive fire. Ayurvedic practice aims to manage this digestive fire in order to achieve optimal health. Ayurveda is also known for a cleansing protocol, panchakarma, which leverages special techniques to remove toxins from the body and restore doshas in the correct balance.
Ayurveda and Beauty
According to Ayurveda, the outer skin reflects the health of three types of internal body tissue: nutritional fluid (Rasa), blood (Rakta), and muscle (Mamsa). Rasa is key to overall skin health, Rakta to liver functioning and detoxification of the skin, and Mamsa with skin firmness. The Vata, Kapha, and Pitta body types have much to do with digestion and metabolism, but they also relate to skin health. For instance, Vata skin can be susceptible to wrinkles and premature aging, while Pitta skin should avoid exposure to steam/heat.
Essential to Ayurvedic beauty and wellness is a holistic view of the skin and body, inclusive of hair and scalp. With the recent focus beyond facial skin into body and hair and more holistic approaches to self-care (thanks to the pandemic), the South Asian practice of hair oiling, which supposedly helps to moisturize and exfoliate the scalp, improve circulation, and stimulate specific energy points, has entered the mainstream with a number of brands (such as Shaz & Kiks and Fable and Mane) forging the way.
Ayurvedic practice involves using spices, herbs, botanical extracts, and oils in topical/external applications in the forms of masks, essential oils and oil blends, herbal waters, powders, and pastes. Like many cultural beauty traditions, South Asian and Ayurveda-inspired rituals were traditionally practiced at home (and particularly in the kitchen — just ask this Skindie who grew up with weekly milk + gram flour + turmeric face masks). Some of the herbs used in Ayurveda are adaptogens, which means that they appear to have health benefits related to the body’s ability to manage physical, mental, and biochemical stress. Adaptogens have received much attention in the alternative health/wellness space and can be found in a variety of health foods and supplements (most of which is unregulated).
To help you navigate what’s out there, we’ve compiled a list of common ingredients found in Ayurveda-inspired beauty products:
Amla (Phyllanthus emblica, also known as Indian gooseberry or amalaki): Considered an adaptogen and “superfruit” high in vitamin C, tannins, amino acids, phenols, and curcuminoids, amla comes in the form of Ayurvedic dietary supplements, dental care, and hair care. It’s a key ingredient in the UMA Intensely Nourishing Hair Oil and the Fable & Mane SahaScalp Amla Soothing Serum.
Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera, also known as winter cherry): This herb is also known to have adaptogenic properties and is popular for its supposed impact on stress reduction. There’s more research to back up these claims vs. the other ingredients featured here, but we’ll get to that shortly. You’ll find it in the Ranavat Face Polish Imperial Glow and the Youth to the People Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream.
Coconut Oil: While skincare is no stranger to coconut oil, its use in Ayurveda has traditionally focused on oral detoxification (in a practice known as gandusha, and more popular today, oil-pulling), body massages, and scalp/hair care.
Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica, also known as cica, tiger grass, kodavan, Indian pennywort and Asiatic pennywort): A part of the parsley family, gotu kola is popular in both Chinese and Indonesian medicine as well as Ayurveda. For those well-versed in Asian skincare, cica will sound familiar — yes, it’s the same ingredient! It supposedly helps alleviate swelling, improve blood pressure and circulation, and stimulate collagen production. It’s featured prominently in the Naturopathica Gotu Kola Intense Repair Balm.
Neem (Azadirachta indica, also known as nimtree): The neem tree is native to both the Indian subcontinent as well as Africa, and neem oil, in particular, is known to have antibacterial properties. It is most commonly used to treat tooth plaque and dental issues, lice, psoriasis, and as an insect repellant. You’ll find it in the Sundari Neem Night Cream.
Holy Basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum also known as tulsi): A plant native to the Indian subcontinent, holy basil is one of the most well-known ingredients in Ayurvedic home remedies, health products, and supplements. Considered to be an anti-inflammatory as well as antioxidant, it is featured in the Naturopathica Holy Basil & Retinol Ageless Night Oil.
Moringa (Moringa oleifera also known as drumstick tree, miracle tree, ben oil tree, or horseradish tree): Like holy basil, the moringa tree is native to the Indian subcontinent and has roots in the health space as well as fragrance. You’ll see it in the Mara Algae & Moringa Universal Face Oil.
Rose: In the form of rose water and rose essential oil, this flower is common in the beauty rituals of many cultures throughout the Middle East and South Asia, and its numerous varieties are popular in both fragrance and skincare formulations. It is the key ingredient in the Monastery Made Rose Cleansing Oil and the UMA Ultimate Brightening Rose Toner.
Saffron (known as saffron crocus, kumkuma, or kesar): Derived from the flower Crocus sativus, this expensive spice and colorant is like rose, found across cultures and is known for its anti-inflammatory anti-fungal properties. Examples of skincare featuring saffron are the Ranavat Radiant Rani Brightening Serum and the Korres Golden Krocus Ageless Saffron Elixir.
Sandalwood: True to its common name, sandalwood (known as chandan in the Hindi language) refers to a genus of trees known as santalaum, whose many species and varieties are found in India, Malaysia, and Australia. It’s best known in fragrance formulations. In Ayurveda, certain types of sandalwood oil and powder are common for its apparent cooling and soothing properties. Sandalwood boards and sticks are often used to create a thin paste that is used as a face mask. It is featured prominently in the UMA Ultimate Brightening Face Mask.
Shikakai (Senegalia rugata): A shrub native to India and China, this extract is often used in shampoos due to its lathering abilities (although not as much as sulfate-based products). It’s featured in the Shaz & Kiks Scalp & Hair Pre-Wash.
Triphala: This mix of three dried fruits (amla, bibhitaki, and haritaki) is known to perform best together rather than individually, and can be found as both a standalone health supplement and as an ingredient in some skincare. You’ll find it in Sahajan Nourish Creme Riche.
Turmeric (Curcuma longa, whose active compound is curcumin): Turmeric was once an unknown spice best known for its strong, yellow hue. Now it is found in a wide range of foods and dietary supplements. A part of the ginger family, it is known for its anti-inflammatory properties when taken orally or used topically. It is featured in too many products to count, but some popular ones include the True Botanicals Ginger Turmeric Cleansing Balm, Aavrani Glow Activating Exfoliator, and the Herbivore Nova 15% Vitamin C + Turmeric Brightening Serum.
There’s a long history of Ayurveda-inspired brands in India and the West. Classic brands from India include Vicco (whose Turmeric Cream, gave us unforgettable ads featuring glowing brides in the ‘70s and ‘80s) and Himalaya (which has been operating since 1930, and now widely available in the US). Brands like Forest Essentials, Khadi, and Kama Ayurveda have modernized the appeal of Ayurvedic beauty with more prestigious branding and pricing, and expanded to a global audience via e-commerce. These brands feature Ayurveda’s hero ingredients as well as traditional formats like ubtan (a physical exfoliant in powder form, used more like a mask than a scrub).
Aveda, a brand founded in 1978 by Horst Rechelbacher, is one of the original Western brands to leverage the Ayurvedic tradition specifically in hair care. Dr. Pratima Raichur, a pioneer in Ayurvedic skincare in the US, founded Bindi a few decades ago and more recently, PRATIMA Skincare. These days, South Asians in the US and elsewhere have been leveraging their cultural heritage and experiences to establish their own beauty brands. In addition to the South Asian Beauty Brands to Watch that we previously featured, notable brands in the Ayurvedic beauty game are Aavrani, Sahajan, and Uma Oils. Other brands that have been leveraging Ayurvedic ingredients include Naturopatica, Youth to the People, Herbivore, and True Botanicals.
What Does Science Say?
It’s complicated. Like with many ancient and indigenous traditions, what constitutes a legitimate body of scientific evidence is often controversial. Established standards in the West tend to consider randomized controlled trials (RCT) on human subjects as the gold standard for producing scientific evidence of efficacy, safety, and performance. And because there is a general lack of such research with traditions like Ayurveda, the general consensus is that there isn’t enough scientific evidence to back its ancient claims. Other sources argue that the lack of a certain type of research does not mean there aren’t other types of evidence to support the efficacy of Ayurvedic treatments.
Ayurvedic ingredients and practices have been described in scholarly research focused on health/wellness, but very few clinical trials using these approaches have been published in established Western medical journals, especially when it comes to skincare. Let’s start with turmeric, which we’ve seen in everything from cleansers, exfoliants, and moisturizers. It has been long-used as a dye, digestive, and in dental care and ointments for its anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and antioxidant properties. A 2016 survey of existing research indicates some evidence that turmeric products and supplements provide therapeutic benefits for skin health (both in topical and oral treatments), but further research is needed to fully understand its efficacy. However, some research does suggest that while low bioavailability and poor absorption are characteristic of curcumin taken orally, topical curcumin may be more effective and is beneficial in treating burns, wounds, scars, psoriasis, and photo-damaged skin due to its inhibitory activity on the enzyme phosphorylase kinase.
Like with many ingredients originating in the alternative health and wellness space, the story of holy basil, moringa, and ashwagandha–which is now having a skincare moment– is similar to that of CBD (which Skindie featured back in March 2021). A 2020 survey of existing clinical research on the root of ashwagandha (also known as Indian ginseng) came to the conclusion that it may be an effective treatment in managing schizophrenia, chronic stress, insomnia, anxiety, rheumatoid arthritis, and even type-2 diabetes. But, the study also noted that large-scale, randomized-controlled, and prospective trials are still needed to determine its efficacy. However, the trend in skincare is treating ashwagandha as an adaptogen whose impact on physical and mental stress can also alleviate “stressed” skin.
The efficacy of Ayurveda-inspired skincare is still evolving, although ingredients considered natural or organic might appeal to those interested in “clean” beauty. Some research suggests that because ingredients are being used in their crude form (as powders or pulverized material), there may actually be a large amount of inactive, unnecessary and biologically ineffective compounds in Ayurvedic products. It’s also worth mentioning that Ayurvedic medicine (including dietary supplements and other health-related products) has attracted less than favorable attention from both the regulatory and efficacy perspectives.
To Ayurveda or not to Ayurveda?
It’s understandable and yet unfortunate that many ancient systems and indigenous practices of healing haven’t received the scientific rigor that they deserve, and it may be problematic to rely solely on a Western framework to determine safety and efficacy. We believe that better science is needed to substantiate the claims of many Ayurveda-inspired brands (and clean beauty generally) but that there should also be space and respect for incorporating diverse systems of healing and self-care into our beauty routines. The Skindie team has been impressed by some of the recent Ayurveda-inspired product launches, and almost everyone has experience with beauty rituals rooted in South Asia. We’d love to hear about your experiences as well — email us with your stories and look out for them in our next newsletter or IG post!