Top 10 Beauty Myths Debunked
Myth #1: The US doesn't regulate cosmetics like the EU (e.g., the EU has banned over 1,400 ingredients, while the US has banned less than 20).
Fact: The approach to regulating cosmetics in the EU and US is fundamentally the same. Cosmetics are considered 'low-risk' to consumers, so both jurisdictions don't require regulatory approval before marketing products. It's up to manufacturers and brands to ensure the safety of their products/ingredients. The EU and the US also authorize regulatory bodies to ban or restrict certain ingredients' use and require warnings and instructions for use on product labels.
If you look at the EU Annex II banned list closely, most of those chemicals are not, and have not, been used in cosmetics in the US or EU. The EU takes a more direct approach to ‘banned’ substances, so the regulation is super clear.
More info: In the US, the FDA regulates cosmetics under the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) Title 21, the Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act, and the Fair Packaging & Labelling Act. The FTC (Federal Trade Commission) governs and monitors claims. State-specific regulations, like in California, are Prop 65, California Safe Cosmetics Act 2005, and The Cosmetic Fragrance and Flavor Ingredient Right to Know Act 2020.
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Myth #2: Many unsafe and unregulated chemical substances make up fragrances.
Fact: In the EU, all chemical substances (including fragrance ingredients) are evaluated for safety regularly by the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). IFRA (International Fragrance Association) regularly publishes safety and usage updates on all ingredients used within fragrances.
In the US, brands follow IFRA & RIFM (Research Institute for Fragrance Materials). The PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) also provides info on ingredient safety, including fragrances. The FDA plays a role, too – it works with the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review), an independent panel that reviews ingredient safety.
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Myth #3: Clean beauty products are safer and more regulated than other beauty products.
Fact: All beauty products must comply with local regulations and are assessed for safety against the same standards. Clean beauty is a marketing claim with no regulatory definition and does not make the product any safer.
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Myth #4: The safety of ingredients used in cosmetics is unknown.
Fact: Cosmetic ingredients are reviewed regularly for safety and usage purposes.
More info: In the EU, the SCCS assesses ingredient safety regularly. In the US, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) reviews ingredients used in cosmetics. The FDA also looks at material from the CIR when assessing ingredient safety.
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Myth #5: Medical-grade products are better than regular cosmetics/beauty products.
Fact: 'Medical grade' is a marketing term that is not defined within any cosmetic regulation. These products are not the same as OTC drugs or FDA-approved products.
More info: Again, all cosmetic products are assessed against the same standards. In the EU, products are classified as cosmetics, medical devices, medicines, or general products. In the US, products can be classified as cosmetics, OTC drugs (e.g., sunscreens or acne treatments), medicines, or medical devices. In the EU, sunscreens are classified as cosmetics, and acne treatments are classified as medicines.
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Myth #6: Cosmetics don't go deep enough into the skin to be effective.
Fact: Many cosmetic ingredients are well-studied and have proven benefits to the skin – and some don't have to go ‘deep’ into the layers of the skin to be effective. Examples of well-studied ingredients with proven benefits include retinoids (e.g., retinol) that protect the skin against aging and vitamin C (e.g., L-ascorbic acid) to help brighten the skin.
More info: Cosmetics have a place in the market, and consumers value the impact of cosmetics within their day-to-day life. They are designed to improve the appearance of the skin, fragrance, protect, beautify, keep the skin in good condition, and combat body odor. Products can do this in several ways/modes of action. Also, product claims should not be perceived as having a medical/physiological effect on the body as a drug does.
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Myth #7: If a product is compliant in one market (e.g., the EU), it can be sold internationally online or offline.
Fact: Depending on where cosmetics are sold, they must comply with local regulations.
More info: If a product is EU compliant, it may not be compliant with the US, UK, or any other market because each has its own local regulations. Usually, a change of label and formulation review is needed. Many markets also require local translations and registration based on how they are categorized and claimed. Most regulations do not consider the rise of eCommerce, so online and offline requirements are the same.
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Myth #8: Preservative-free beauty products are safer.
Fact: Preservatives are permitted to be used in beauty products and have undergone rigorous safety assessments. They ensure no mold or unwanted microorganisms develop after products are made.
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Myth #9: Sunscreen (chemical or mineral) causes coral bleaching.
Fact: Currently, there is not enough scientific evidence to support this claim. More research and data are needed.
More info: Coral bleaching is most likely due to pollution and rising sea temperatures. Stating that sunscreens cause coral bleaching or are ‘reef friendly' is a misleading marketing claim and is an example of greenwashing.
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Myth #10: If brands sell in China, they must test on animals.
Fact: Under the new CSAR (China's Cosmetics, Supervision & Administration Regulation), not all cosmetics need to be tested on animals before they are sold in China.
More info: China recognizes two types of cosmetics: general and special. General cosmetics include makeup, cleansers, moisturizers, and hair removal creams. Special cosmetics include hair dyes, spot removers, and skin-lightening creams. Only special cosmetics – and those intended for children – must be tested on animals. General cosmetics do not need to be tested on animals if the brand can provide evidence to the Chinese authorities (NMPA) that they comply with cosmetic GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) (i.e., by providing a government-certified document).