The Truth About Fragrance in Skincare: Part 2
In the first article of our two part fragrance series, we established some of the basics on the science of fragrance. Today, we’re digging even deeper. Now that you understand fragrance from a formulation perspective and the safety guidelines that govern it, we’ll explore the gray area that is FDA labeling requirements, its role in fragrance transparency, fragrance as an allergen, and the future of fragrance in skincare.
The FDA & fragrance….it’s complicated
As we explained in our previous issue, a common misconception is that fragrance in the U.S. is not well regulated, but that is not at all the case when it comes to safety and testing of fragrance raw materials. The factors considered in formulating with fragrance examine whether a product will be “rinse-off” or “leave-on,” and what the acceptable levels of fragrance are for each product type. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) outlines clear standards for each of the 12 product categories as well as format (i.e., a product applied to the lips vs. a product applied to the body), that takes into account dermal sensitization, phototoxicity, and systemic toxicity based on rigorous assessment methodologies.
The regulatory story is different when it comes to fragrance transparency in the U.S since FDA guidelines allow some flexibility with fragrance disclosure. This is largely because fragrance formulas in the U.S. are protected by the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, which considers them to be trade secrets whose ingredients do not have to be disclosed on labels.
Practices protecting intellectual property (IP) in the fragrance industry are common globally (just imagine if someone tried to copy Chanel No. 5!), and regional regulation may vary. Because of this, most markets follow IFRA standards which support EU legislation to balance both business IP concerns and the demand for fragrance transparency. These standards promote consumer safety, but if regulations were to require full disclosure, it could limit the amount of usable ingredients and competition in the fragrance industry, and provide no real meaningful health benefits to consumers. U.S. labeling and disclosure can still be a little confusing and more clarity in labeling probably wouldn’t hurt.
As you might recall from Part 1, fragrance appears in product ingredient lists as fragrance/parfum, fragrance essential oils (i.e., lavender oil), and or aroma ingredients (i.e., limonene, linalool, and geraniol, which are also known as fragrance components). It’s worth noting that ingredients present in a product at insignificant levels may be considered “incidental,” in which case they need not be declared on the label at all. Based on the guidelines, these ingredients can appear in a product but also use common labels such as:
Unscented: Product may contain ingredients (synthetic or natural) that neutralize or mask the odors of other ingredients (the product may have a smell that is disguised).
This is commonly seen with deodorants.
Fragrance-Free: No fragrance materials (synthetic or natural) or masking scents are used in the product.
This guideline can be circumvented by listing essential oils or aroma ingredients as individual ingredients, and not lumped together with the catch-all language of “fragrance” or “parfum.” This labeling is still compliant since it details the specific fragrance components as part of the overall formula.
The regulation on this claim varies a lot by market. Some countries use claims like free-from fragrance, free-from synthetic fragrances, etc. The final label claims are determined by local market regulation.
Confused yet? We got you. Here are a few examples to make this easier to understand:
Elizabeth Arden 8-Hr Skin Protectant (Fragrance-free): This cult classic claims to be fragrance-free but actually contains two aroma ingredients – vanillin and benzyl alcohol.
Necessaire Deodorant (Fragrance-free): Also marketed as fragrance-free, this product includes essential oils like eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus) leaf oil, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil, abies sibirica (siberian fir) oil, zingiber officinale (ginger) root oil, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil, and pogostemon cablin (patchouli) oil.
Basically, a product can contain aroma ingredients or essential oils and still be labeled unscented or fragrance-free. By the way, masking agents can include any combination of aroma ingredients (i.e., ethylene brassylate, amyl cinnamal, benzyl cinnamate, cinnamyl alcohol, citral, citronellal, citronellol, coumarin, isoeugenol, menthol) or essential oils and extracts (i.e., lemon, lavender, cinnamon, chamomile and eucalyptus).
If that was harder to follow than Bennifer or bitcoin, we get it. All you really need to know is that fragrance in skincare is acceptable under FDA regulations protecting trade-secrets, and companies are compliant when they use unscented or fragrance-free claims.
The US vs. EU
The FDA recognizes that some fragrance components may be sensitizing or allergenic, but it doesn’t have the authority to require allergen labeling for cosmetics like it does with food. However, the FDA acknowledges clinical evidence from the EU and makes available the European Commission’s compilation of 26 fragrance ingredients considered to be allergens that require disclosure in cosmetic ingredient labeling. More fragrance materials are being studied and will be added to the EU’s existing list of allergens by 2023-2024, with the number of fragrance ingredients rising from 26 to about 80.
Not to mention, the clean beauty and anti-fragrance movement often look to the EU as an example when canceling ingredients, but they rarely address the fact that EU regulation is more about disclosure versus banning ingredients.
Fragrance as an allergen – what the clinical evidence says
It’s well-established that fragrance is one of the most common allergens found in cosmetics (which includes skincare). There is also evidence that fragrance contact allergy is on the rise, which may be in part due to increasingly widespread use of fragrance-containing products and compromised skin barriers. Fragrance can create an “avoidable risk of irritant or allergic reaction in fragrance-sensitive persons.” Studies show that 1.7–4.1% of the general population are sensitized to 8 of the most common sensitizing fragrance ingredients, known as the fragrance mix, which includes oak moss, isoeugenol, eugenol, cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, cinnamyl alcohol, and amy cinnamal. Fragrance allergy also occurs predominantly in women with facial or hand eczema, and there is a direct correlation between the use of products with fragrance and the development of fragrance contact allergy.
There is a wide range of factors influencing fragrance contact allergy, including allergen concentration, individual level of sensitivity, number of applications, previous allergic eczema, combination with other irritants or allergens, and dose/unit skin. These last two factors are especially critical to understanding fragrance contact allergy. In Part 1, we mentioned that allergens are often present in combination with other irritants, which may induce a response in allergic individuals greater than exposure to the single ingredients. We also talked about dose/unit skin, which outlines that the risk of becoming sensitized becomes higher with exposure to high-concentration products applied to small areas of skin, versus low-concentration products spread over larger areas (even if the total amount of fragrance allergen is the same). This means that fine fragrances (such as perfumes), which are highly-concentrated and applied to small areas, have significant potential for causing contact allergy compared to other products.
We want to point out that much of the clinical evidence explores the role of fragrance in contact allergy for patients who are already sensitive to fragrance or who have existing skin conditions, as well as cosmetic products with higher doses of fragrance than found in skincare. These products include deodorants and fine fragrances. Scented creams and lotions haven’t been explored in as much detail, although some clinical studies do indicate that skincare products can be a cause of contact allergy.
The general consensus is that individual patient history may be the best way to determine potential of allergy and the need to use fragrance-free products. More research on fragrance in skincare specifically is needed (especially facial skincare), and diagnostic tests and indicators of fragrance allergy are still evolving.
Is natural fragrance safer than synthetic?
We said this in Part 1 and we’ll say it again – no. The clean beauty movement has heavily promoted essential oils as a safer alternative to synthetic fragrance. Not only does this myth ignore the fact that most fragrances contain a combination of natural and synthetic materials, there is a wealth of literature on its allergy potential. As is the case with any ingredient, essential oils may be safe at low concentrations, but they can also possess a strong allergy potential based on concentration. Research also indicates that natural fragrances are not safer than synthetic ones and amongst other downsides, can cause skin irritation, sensitization, phototoxicity, and discoloration.
The future of fragrance in skincare
If you’re still reading this – pat yourself on the back! You made it through a lot of technical detail and nuance. Thanks for bearing with us. Now that you’re an expert on fragrance in skincare, you can see how the debate on fragrance is far from simple; the reality is more complicated and the future of fragrance in skincare is rapidly changing.
Given the complexity of fragrance formulation, high prevalence/exposure rates, the number of factors that impact contact allergy, and ongoing research, it’s not easy to cancel fragrance in skincare. Not to mention aroma components from natural products have been used for mental, spiritual and physical healing since the beginning of recorded history, having positive effects on mood, physiology, and behavior. Fragrance is a source of comfort and wellbeing for consumers historically – especially in the current pandemic.
In the near future, expect to see plant based essences at the forefront of skincare fragrance development. These are botanical extracts that can impart an odor to a product and would be labeled by their genus and species on a product label. You’ll also find fragrances with better safety profiles (i.e.,fragrances that do not contain any of the EU’s 26 fragrance ingredients considered to be allergens). This year, industry experts are also predicting that the relationship between fragrance and emotional wellness will strengthen, with more mood-boosting aromas and citrus-infused scents appearing on the market. And after an initial dip in sales, post-pandemic predictions for fragrance are high, especially with the newfound appreciation of scent due to the impact of the coronavirus on sense of smell. The pendulum is always swinging, so we wouldn’t be surprised if this reversed the fragrance-free trend in skincare.
Reviewed by Janice Hart & team of Bell Flavors & Fragrances.
Photo by The Creative Exchange on Unsplash