Skincare & Fermentation: What You Need to Know Part 2
In Part 1 of our series on fermentation in skincare, you got through the basics — what fermentation is and where we see it in skincare. ICMYI — just remember that 1) fermentation is a process in which microorganisms (like yeast and bacteria) allow complex, organic substances to become simpler compounds in the absence of oxygen (anaerobic fermentation) and 2) fermentation takes place in specific conditions, making it useful to food, cosmetic, and biotech product development. Now, let’s tackle the why of its prevalence in skincare.
Fermentation has become popular in the beauty industry due to its cost effectiveness and the speed at which it creates high purity ingredients, while providing natural preservation and a high sustainability index. Cosmetic brands love fermentation for its ability to create unique blends of ingredients, which can warrant claims around uniqueness or improved functionality/efficacy. Fermentation also allows endangered species, expensive materials and extremophiles (substances created under extreme conditions) to be produced economically (e.g., hyaluronic acid and palm oil).
When it comes to purity of ingredients, a good example is CBD, which can be made more pure through fermentation and more quickly than with the natural farming process. In terms of sustainability, fermentation also provides an alternative source for ingredients, especially those that are typically derived from animals (e.g., collagen, elastin, and squalane).
Fermentation in skincare
Let's talk formula. The main claim to fame of fermented skincare has been that the process allows for more effective absorption into the skin and unique ingredients, some of which may be more effective than their unfermented forms. That being said, does size matter? Products with fermented ingredients are marketed as “bio-compatible” or “bio-available” to suggest that the smaller molecular size achieved through fermentation will penetrate deeper into the skin. But fermentation isn’t the only way to create smaller molecules, and molecules don’t necessarily need to be at their tiniest to be effective. There is a happy medium when it comes to size that is ideal for each ingredient and formula.
What about fermentation-derived ingredients? In skincare, fermentation can be used to produce: 1) specific high purity biomolecules; or 2) fermented liquids, including probiotics and prebiotics. Products may feature the individual biomolecules or a blend of ingredients inside liquids (often referred to as “broths”). The latter often appears in ingredient lists as “ferment filtrate.” These ferment filtrates are pretty common and appear across multiple brands and products. Examples include galactomyces ferment filtrate (found in the SK-II and Benton essences, as well as the DE Sweet Biome spray), and saccharomyces ferment filtrate (found in both the Neogen and Fresh products). Another iconic product boasting a fermented blend is the La Mer Crème De La Mer, which features a “miracle broth” of bio-fermented algae.
When it comes to ingredients uniquely produced via fermentation, the story is a little murky. First, many ingredients like AHAs, amino acids, and sugars can be added directly to formulas with more precision and predictability than the fermentation process naturally allows. But big brands often leverage fermented broths/blends/complexes as a way to keep their formulas proprietary and avoid full disclosure of their ingredient lists, plus it’s easier to register such ingredients in international markets like China. Some disclosed ingredients are only used as inputs for the fermentation process (i.e., they are not uniquely produced through the process) and the specific conditions under which unique substances may be produced are usually not disclosed either.
The end result is that brands can price their products higher under the guise of a fermented blend while other ingredients remain hidden. Even when ferments do feature expensive raw materials, they are usually present in very small percentages- but that doesn’t stop brands from splashing prominent claims on their labels to woo customers. So to you, the consumer, it looks as if that ingredient is present in a higher concentration than it really is, and that is uniquely produced via fermentation.
Got it — but do they work?
Now that we get the background on fermented ingredients, how do they fare on performance? In the area of the high purity standardized bioactives provided through fermentation, they mimic the activity of their standard biomarker. However in the areas of blends (e.g., broths or filtrates) — well, the research on the efficacy of ingredients produced via fermentation varies. There is evidence to suggest that galactomyces ferment filtrate has anti-oxidant effects and that bifida ferment lysate helps with improved barrier function, skin sensitivity and other anti-aging benefits. Soy and red ginseng are backed by more concrete research. The fermented version of red ginseng, for example, is more potent than the regular version when it comes to increased anti-wrinkle efficacy, whitening efficacy, and reduced toxicological potency. Similarly, research on fermented soy milk extract shows that it has more potential to enhance production of hyaluronic acid than the unfermented version. There’s potential, promise, and some demonstrated efficacy here. But overall, there is also a huge opportunity for more concrete research and innovation.
To ferment or not to ferment?
Like with food-inspired DIY face masks, there’s something appealing about fermented skincare — if it’s good enough for our GI systems, it must be good for the face, right? As we’ve seen, there’s a lack of evidence-based research with limited oversight from regulatory bodies, but there are marketing claims and stories galore for brands to establish a point of difference. Current end benefits of the formulas are quite similar across brands and besides soy and red ginseng, we don’t see any hero ingredients that should be a must-have in your skincare routine. As always though, if you find a product that seems to work well for your skin or you enjoying using — go for it and let us know, we’re all ears.