Is CBD in Skincare All that it’s Cracked Up to Be?
While some of us might be celebrating the legalization of marijuana, one of its non-intoxicating components, CBD, has found its way into our beauty routines. CBD has become the buzziest hero ingredient across beauty and wellness, popping everywhere from smoothies to serums. The beauty biz has been busy lifting CBD’s potential in medical therapies (e.g., chronic pain, anxiety, and certain types of childhood epilepsy) to skincare, bath, and body products.
You’ve probably come across some niche beauty brands marketing CBD products—Saint Jane, Herbivore Botanicals, Farmacy, and Chantecaille, just to name a few; “cannabis-based” skincare products are also sold at major retailers such as Ulta, Sephora and Macy’s. But while it might sound neat in theory, the current hype around CBD in beauty is just that—hype, with a little bit of promise mixed in.
What exactly is CBD?
CBD (or cannabidiol) is a biologically active chemical compound derived from different varieties of the cannabis sativa plant. It is one of two primary active ingredients found in marijuana (the other being the psychoactive factor that some of us might be more familiar with, tetrahydrocannabinol, or THC).
You’ve probably also heard of hemp and are wondering what that’s all about. And if you’re confused, you’re right to be. Botanically speaking, marijuana and hemp are the same plant species. But in the eyes of the law and regulation, they are defined by percentages of THC they contain—marijuana is a controlled substance with THC levels of higher than 0.3%, while hemp-derived products can contain up to 0.3% and are not controlled substances. So just remember—CBD in skincare is derived from hemp, the low-THC, industrial grade, and non-psychotropic form of cannabis.
In terms of skincare, CBD is commonly formulated as an oil and brands often describe their products as being CBD “infused.” The best way to ensure that a product actually contains CBD is to look for the FDA ingredient name on the product label—“cannabidiol.” CBD-enriched hemp oil and hemp seed oil (a.k.a. cannabis sativa seed oil) are not the same thing as CBD. They are derived from the same plant but much less concentrated in CBD.
So what is the deal with CBD?
The hype. Unlike other hero ingredients of the past that made their way over to cosmetics from the nutrition and food industries (think Resveratrol, holy basil, moringa, kale, etc.), what’s really interesting about CBD is the “cool” factor that it holds in the popular imagination. This might be because of positive associations with marijuana, its perception as being harmless and “natural,” and efforts to destigmatize marijuana via inclusion in the increasingly enmeshed beauty/health/wellness space.
Let’s be clear that CBD is a potent chemical compound and antioxidant that can be synthesized in a lab just like many ingredients. It gets that “natural” label because it is physically extracted from plants using various methods and mixed with oils that are also perceived as natural. Because of this, the ingredient fits well into marketing stories focused on “natural” and alternative—and we know how much the industry loves stories and newness.
More than a few well-known brands have dived into the “cannabis craze” by using hemp seed oil and not actual CBD in their formulas. But this type of oil is no different than other oils added in skincare that impart conditioning properties. The choice of hemp seed oil has more to do with marketing and the need to ride a trend, and less to do with efficacy or empowering consumers with the right information.
The regulation. Like all skincare that is defined as a cosmetic by the FDA (unlike sunscreens and anti-acne products, which are actually considered OTC drugs), CBD skincare products must follow the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. However, companies can get around this by demonstrating cosmetic benefits and non-drug effects, avoiding claims like “anti-inflammatory.”
This has all become a teeny bit tricky because even though CBD is technically an approved drug, the use of active CBD in cosmetics is currently not widely approved in the US or globally. This has limited its use to smaller companies, dermatologists, and medical practitioners. And as we said before—some companies have resorted to classic marketing ploys of using basic hemp seed oil/cannabis sativa seed oil (nothing more than a conditioning oil providing antioxidant benefits) to stay in the game.
Misleading and inaccurate information on CBD has become a public health issue and the FDA has already sent warning letters to some companies to address. There’s sure to be some change in the near future—our Canadian neighbors are ahead of the game with their regulation, so it will be interesting to see how the US regulation evolves.
The business. Even though the market for CBD cosmetics is growing rapidly, there is a reason you won’t see the global beauty brand establishment like the L’Oreal’s, P&G’s, or Estee Lauder’s of the world dive into the CBD product story. The future of CBD remains uncertain due to continued research on efficacy, target dosage levels, and ongoing regulatory issues. So what you’re seeing out there right now is a host of niche brands riding the CBD wave, and the big brands playing it safe with the use of non-controversial hemp seed oil, while continuing to conduct research that backs efficacy and that positions them to launch new molecules when regulation opens up.
The results. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), claims that CBD can treat skincare conditions like acne or rosacea are unproven and there isn’t enough research to support CBD’s efficacy in skincare. Contrary to being natural and therefore harmless, the FDA considers CBD to have possible health risks. And even though a few small studies are suggestive of its oil-control, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, the research is very early-stage in proving binding to cannabinoid receptors (which is what creates efficacy), only based on in-vitro studies, and not what you’d call definitive (the same goes for its impact on insomnia, anxiety, and chronic pain).
That said, there is interesting research going on in other areas with CBD—like its impact on gene expression. Overall, there isn’t a lot of clinical data to show that CBD in a topical product makes it superior or even a great product. There are a TON of ingredients out there with soothing, anti-inflammatory, oil-control properties. And it remains to be seen if CBD goes in the direction of Retinol or remains a basic herbal ingredient. We’re not saying there isn’t potential—but if the science isn’t there yet, why should our wallets be?
What to look for. If you’re still interested in CBD products, it helps to know what to look for, because CBD marketing isn’t necessarily reflected in ingredient lists. Typically, you’ll see the following types of CBD products and/or ingredients listed:
CBD isolate is the purest form of CBD, isolated from the other compounds of the hemp plant. CBD isolate should have no THC.
Broad-spectrum CBD has all of the naturally-occurring compounds (including minor cannabinoids) found in cannabis, except THC.
Full-spectrum CBD contains all of the naturally-occurring compounds (including minor cannabinoids) found in cannabis, including THC.
There are also newer, lesser-known cannabinoids with unique functionalities, like CBN (Cannabinol), CBG (Cannabigerol), CBD-A (Cannabidiolic acid), CBC (Cannabichromene), THCV (Tetrahydrocannabivarin), THC-A (Tetrahydrocannabolic acid), which are trickling into the scene.
While these aren’t legal, scientific, or even regulatory definitions, they are the generally accepted and widely-recognized ones that most retailers have adopted.
Let’s look at a few examples that you can currently purchase at Sephora, starting with the Prima Night Magic 300mg CBD Intensive Face Oil. In addition to CBD in the name, the description says it includes “broad-spectrum hemp extract with naturally occurring CBD.” But if you look at the ingredient list, cannabidiol is nowhere to be found.
What you want to see is this—Cannabidiol (Full-spectrum CBD), in the ingredient list for Saint Jane’s best-selling Luxury CBD Beauty Serum:
Not to mention, more isn’t more when it comes to the amount of CBD advertised in the product name. Skincare products typically have about 200-400 mg of CBD (500 mg in Saint Jane’s example). But quantity doesn’t matter—the percentage of an ingredient in the overall formula is how an effective dose is determined (for reference, the dose for OTC products with CBD is about 200 mg/1 mL—far more than what the cosmetic versions contain). So, since you don’t know the percent within the total formula, knowing these amounts isn’t helpful.
The verdict
Until there’s more evidence to back up the kinds of claims we’re seeing, and stronger regulation in the US that’s reflected in labeling, claims, and ingredient lists, we think it wise not to buy into marketing. And if you do—well, that’s okay, too. Just remember to read the INCI to understand what you’re getting, and know that the efficacy might not be what you expect (or might not come from the CBD itself but from the overall formulation). For now—we suggest indulging in some of the more established recreational uses based on the laws of the state you live in (wink, wink).
Photo Credit: CRYSTALWEED cannabis on Unsplash